A tap that drips once every few seconds can be surprisingly disruptive, particularly at night. More importantly, it wastes water and may point to a seal, valve or fitting that is nearing the end of its working life. These leaking tap repair steps will help you identify the likely cause, carry out a straightforward repair where appropriate, and recognise when professional attention is the safer option.
Before taking anything apart, look carefully at where the water is escaping. A drip from the spout when the tap is turned off is usually an internal valve issue. Water around the handle, or running down the body of the tap, often suggests a worn seal around the spindle or cartridge. A leak beneath the basin is different again and may involve the flexible hoses, pipework or waste fitting.
Start with the right preparation
A small repair goes more smoothly when the area is prepared properly. Clear the cupboard beneath the basin or sink, place a towel in the bowl to protect its surface, and put the plug in. This stops screws, clips and small components disappearing down the waste.
You will usually need an adjustable spanner, a flat-head screwdriver, a cross-head screwdriver, a cloth and a suitable replacement washer, O-ring or ceramic cartridge. Tap components are not universal, so it is worth identifying the make and model where possible. Taking the old part to a plumbing merchant, or noting its dimensions and spline pattern, can prevent an unnecessary second repair.
Most importantly, isolate the water supply before loosening any part of the tap. Look for isolation valves on the hot and cold supply pipes beneath the basin or sink. Turn their small screw slots a quarter turn so they sit across the pipe. If there are no local valves, turn off the property’s main stopcock. Open the tap afterwards to release remaining water and check that the supply is fully off.
If you are working near electrical sockets, an electric shower control or appliances beneath the worktop, do not proceed where water could reach electrical equipment. A qualified professional should assess the situation.
Leaking tap repair steps for a drip from the spout
The method depends on the type of tap. Traditional taps with separate hot and cold handles generally use a compression valve and washer. Many modern mixer taps use ceramic disc cartridges. Both can cause a drip, but the replacement parts and repair process differ.
Repairing a traditional washer tap
On a conventional tap, first remove the decorative cap on the handle. It may simply prise off with a small flat screwdriver. Remove the screw beneath it, lift off the handle, then unscrew or carefully remove the shroud that covers the valve body.
Use an adjustable spanner on the hexagonal nut of the tap valve, not on the tap body itself. Turn it anti-clockwise and lift the valve out. At its lower end, you should find a small rubber washer held by a screw, clip or friction fit. This washer presses against the valve seat when the tap is closed. Over time it can harden, split or become misshapen, allowing water through.
Replace the washer with one of the same diameter and thickness. While the valve is out, inspect the valve seat inside the tap body. If it feels rough, pitted or scored, a new washer may not seal for long. A plumber can re-seat or replace the affected part, depending on the tap and the extent of the wear.
Reassemble the tap in the reverse order. Tighten components firmly but do not force them. Overtightening can damage threads, distort seals and make future maintenance more difficult. Restore the water supply gradually, then test the tap at a normal flow rate and once it is fully closed.
Repairing a ceramic cartridge tap
A quarter-turn or lever mixer tap commonly contains a ceramic disc cartridge. These cartridges have precise internal parts, so they are generally replaced rather than repaired individually.
After removing the handle and decorative cover, loosen the retaining nut or collar and withdraw the cartridge. Before fitting a replacement, note its orientation. The locating pins, water ports and handle spindle must line up exactly with the tap body and handle. A cartridge that appears similar can still be incompatible.
Wipe away any limescale or debris inside the tap body with a clean cloth. Avoid scratching the seating surfaces. Fit the new cartridge, secure the retaining nut and refit the handle. Once the supply is back on, operate the tap slowly and check that hot and cold water are flowing as expected. If the handle is stiff, water flow is poor, or the tap still drips, stop rather than tightening further – the cartridge may be the wrong type or the tap body may be worn.
If water is leaking from the handle or base
A leak around the handle is often caused by an O-ring or gland seal. On a traditional tap, this may sit around the spindle beneath the shroud. On a mixer tap, seals may be fitted around the cartridge.
Isolate the supply, remove the handle and expose the valve or cartridge as above. Check the rubber seals for flattening, cracking and signs of deterioration. Replace them with matching parts and apply a small amount of plumber’s silicone grease if suitable for the fitting. Do not use general-purpose oil or petroleum-based grease, as these can damage rubber components.
Water collecting at the base of the tap is not always coming from the tap itself. Dry the area thoroughly, run the water, and watch closely. A loose backnut, failing flexible connector or leak at the waste can mimic a faulty tap. In a vanity unit, even a slow leak can damage chipboard, flooring and stored items before it is noticed.
Check the connections beneath the basin or sink
If the leak is under the worktop, do not assume a washer inside the tap is responsible. Check the flexible tap tails and compression fittings with dry tissue while the water is running. Tissue makes a small amount of moisture easier to spot than your hand does.
A connection that has worked loose may need a very slight adjustment, but this is an area where force causes problems. Old pipework, plastic fittings and corroded nuts can fail when disturbed. If a fitting continues to weep after careful checking, or if a pipe moves when touched, arrange a plumbing repair rather than repeatedly tightening it.
Also inspect the waste trap and the seal around the plughole. Leaks that appear only when the basin is emptied are likely to be waste-related, not a supply-side tap fault. Keeping these causes separate saves time and avoids replacing parts that were not defective.
When a DIY repair is sensible – and when to call a plumber
Replacing a clearly worn washer or a like-for-like cartridge can be a sensible household repair when isolation valves work, the tap is accessible and the fittings are in good condition. It is less suitable where the tap is heavily corroded, integrated into a stone worktop, or connected to awkward or ageing pipework.
Call a qualified plumber if you cannot isolate the water, a valve or nut is seized, the tap body is cracked, or a repair creates a new leak. Professional help is also the right choice if water has reached a cupboard, wall or floor, as the source and any hidden damage should be checked promptly.
In Cheshire and South Manchester, Peter Higson & Co Ltd can investigate persistent tap leaks as part of a wider plumbing repair, with clear advice on whether a component replacement or a new tap offers better long-term value. Replacing an inexpensive seal is often worthwhile, but an old tap with recurring leaks, limescale damage and poor operation may be more economical to renew.
A repaired tap should close without excessive force and stay dry around the base and pipe connections. Check it again later that day and the following morning. Catching a returning drip early protects both your water bill and the cupboard, worktop or flooring beneath it.
